BALANCE of CULTURE

Mumbai, India: April-May 2013

We were originally supposed to visit India later this year after the monsoon season, but scheduling conflicts forced us to go on an April-May visit before the regional torrential rains began this time (luckily, our visas were already in order). Though we had tons of research items to check off for two projects, particularly in Mumbai and Kerala, I think we completed them in the most efficient way possible. 

One of my favorite ways to start the day was to admire the epic sunrise, complete with the daily morning Muslim call to prayer. The call to prayer in Mumbai (or Bombay, depending on your point of view and preference) was definitely loud and clear, and more "professional" sounding than those we heard in more rural parts of the country. Always quite beautiful to hear.  

Below is our host and BFF in Mumbai, Asif. As you can see, he's pretty excited to take us around the brand new BMW 730 LD, which is the first 7 series to be assembled in India. It was like being in a wifi-enabled spaceship/tank driving this monster around the insane Mumbai traffic, which was full of pedestrians, auto rickshaws, Ambassador cabs, crazy honking, beggars, etc. Despite the complete disregard that drivers seem to have for lanes, rules, etc., somehow we never witnessed any road rage or even a single fender bender.

The next day we were invited to an impressively thorough briefing of the 2008 Mumbai attacks. Pakistan's ISI has a formidable presence in the region, and India's own RAW is currently busy revamping a lot of its internal structure. Can't really say much more than that right now...

The Taj Mahal Palace is probably the most beautiful hotel building in the city. Maybe not as sleek and modern as the Oberoi, but its history and location right in front of the Gateway of India really makes it a must if you come to Mumbai. It's owned by the Tata Group, like so much is in India, whose former chairman Ratan Tata was the head of the Center for Asia Pacific Policy board at RAND:

While the Taj may have the classical and historical advantage in Mumbai, I can also attest that the Four Seasons is another excellent place for business travelers to stay. Their new-ish rooftop bar and lounge, Aer, boasts a view of the city that simply cannot be topped--it's probably the most amazing bar I've been to so far:

We tried to squeeze in as much "touristy" things as we could. Here's the usual crowd on the street just outside the Gateway of India--lots of people selling trinkets or cold drinks (it was very, very hot, even for Mumbai standards):

The majestic Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus railway station (formerly Victoria Terminus and now simply referred to as "VT"), is the headquarters of Mumbai's central railways. It's easy to see why this gorgeous building, built in 1887 in honor of Queen and Empress Victoria, is a UNESCO heritage site:

Then back to the Taj for more meetings. Lots of history to be admired here--everyone from Nicolas Sarkozy to Mick Jagger to Oprah Winfrey spends time here while in Mumbai:

Speaking of presidents, a shop where we picked up some silk scarves boasted photos of their favorite foreign customer, Bill Clinton:

Contrary to perhaps how Mumbai was even just a decade ago, I was surprised at how few cows I saw on the streets--I saw many more dogs, cats and goats running around the city. This one was an exception, pulling a mobile mosque:

Of course, we couldn't leave Mumbai without visiting Mani Bhavan, the beautiful building which served as Mahatma Gandhi's headquarters in Mumbai from 1917-1934. He lived and worked here during those years and the mansion is now an official museum for people all over the world to see his library (below), photographs, sparse bedroom, etc.

In 2010, President Obama was the first high-profile international guest to visit this museum, and they proudly show a photo and gift from that visit in the front downstairs lobby. 

Below is the view of Dhobi Ghat, Mumbai's famous open air laundromat in the Mahalaxmi area. Inside, workers called dhobis clean the city's clothing in rows and rows of concrete wash pens. The system is highly intricate, similar to the dabbawala food delivery system, and reminds me of a gigantic, human computer system from another era:

Amir Restaurant, a typical spot in the city's red light district:

Of course, I was cajoled into trying on a sari even though I knew I wouldn't buy one this time. This shop keeper expertly wrapped me up in one and insisted we take photos of the whole process, just for fun. 

The thing that everybody seems to think about Mumbai is that it's a city of contrasts. I liken the city's vibe to a harsh fusion of billionaires and beggars--being India's financial and Bollywood capital, Mumbai provides 33% of the country's total tax revenue and has seen a population explosion from just under 6 million in 1971 to a total metropolitan population of 20.5 million today--and it definitely shows. The city now has more actual billionaires than Paris, Shanghai, or Los Angeles--a truly remarkable change from its humble fishing colony days.

However, my personal takeaway from the Mumbai today is how it's probably the most intense melting pot society I've seen thus far in the world…kind of similar to Kuala Lumpur with its complex mix of ethnicities, religions, and cultures, but with an edge reminiscent of Tokyo from decades ago. 

No amount of photos could do justice to the beauty and intensity of Mumbai but that also goes for southern India as a whole, which was completely different down in Kerala where we surfed, which I'll get to next.  

Parisian Time Machine

Walking around many parts of Paris is indeed like entering a time machine, as they say--see this striking photo collection that compares Parisian moments from 1914 and 2013. Not too many differences from the WWI days besides the technology (lights, transportation, etc.).

We all know the world loves French culture, and the relative preservation of historic urban Paris surely helps France maintain the status of being the most visited country in the world by tourists (the United States comes in a close second). I would love to see similar comparisons with more French cities as well as other cities around the globe. 

Mt. Everest Panorama

The photo below of the Khumbu glacier near Mt. Everest is already beautiful, but click here to see an absolutely breathtaking panorama shot of the same scene in 2 billion pixels!

China's Passport Propaganda

China is upsetting its neighbors with a new addition in their Beijing-issued passports: maps showing disputed border territories belonging to China. Vietnam, Taiwan, and the Philippines are a few of the states compromised in this peculiarly aggressive "passport propaganda," but it is perhaps India who is the most infuriated. China has been a long-time weapons provider to Pakistan, so this move comes under particular scrutiny by Delhi. 

Passports were always like quaint relics of the past to me. I've always been surprised at how this sort of important record keeping comes in the form of a flimsy, paper object that can be burned or lost at any given moment (social security cards are in the same category as well). 

But because of the fact that this medium seems here to stay for the time being (at least until an innovative government steps up to the plate, which is probably inevitable), this was a very contemporary way for China to utilize a "new" rendition of public art to their territorial advantage. Revisionist history is everywhere. 

Asian Flights Are Really Taking Off

Why are Asian airlines so superior to American ones? This is a question that I've wondered literally for years--it's hard not to compare the steep differences after you've flown on a few different carriers from both sides of the Pacific.

Even when you fly coach, Asian flight experiences are so much less of a headache than their US counterparts. You get more personal space, your own monitor for entertainment (bonus: they actually work, too), much healthier food and--perhaps most importantly--a much more refined and respectful staff. Basically, higher standards on everything. 

This WSJ piece sums up the problems plaguing the airline industry in America in comparison to Asia. After the native New Englander-writer spent years flying Asian carriers pretty much exclusively, her senses were unpleasantly jolted upon her first flight aboard an American one. Her main issues were the inefficient and surly stewardesses coupled with the poorly maintained plane itself. Evidently these problems are remnants from decades ago:

The differences lie in history. Since airline deregulation in the late 1970's, America's big three have struggled with "legacy issues"--an industry term for older workforces, higher salaries, pensions and union contract that all add up to higher costs.

Not only are Asian airlines relatively unhampered by these issues, but they're also blessed by the fact that their region is seeing phenomenal growth in passenger traffic. Asian airlines in recent years have accounted for half of total industry profits. And those earnings are wisely reinvested into newer planes, cutting-edge seats and innovative entertainment systems. 

I should note the two US-based airlines which seem to at least be trying to keep up with global competition--Hawaiian Airlines (which appears to be doing the best out of all the American carriers the past few years) and Virgin America. But somehow the "big three" aren't what they used to be (or were they ever?) despite all their ancillary fees, which Asian carriers rarely charge (so far). 

Now that nearly all of China's airlines are outperforming and outranking America's, it is clearly time for our carriers to wake up and revamp their strategies. 

Spinner dolphins overworked from tourists

These dolphins are tired of being overworked for tourists…literally. In Hawaii, the high number of island visitors who have their hearts set on meeting the "dogs of the sea" are having a negative impact on the health of these spinner dolphins by preventing them from getting much needed rest and sleep. Scientists have created maps which show that only 21 out of 99 bays off the main Hawaiian islands were "suitable habitats for resting dolphins." 

Interacting with spinner dolphins is highly popular all over the world, not just in Hawaii. I can't help but wonder how overworked dolphins are in less regulated parts of the world. I've never wanted to "ride" a dolphin as I've always viewed it as partaking in a lame circus-like activity couched in "family fun." This recent study has definitely convinced me that sequestering these wild creatures into the very profitable (yet often archaic) tourism world is something that will be remembered with disbelief and shame in a hundred years. 

China on Egypt's Mind

What to do about a weak tourism industry in your politically-volatile country? Court the Chinese. I mean, what countries aren't inducing China for more bilateral relations in some manner right now? 

This isn't a new thing--just look at Greece, Spain, Portugal…they see how Chinese travelers have "quietly surpassed their American and Japanese counterparts" to become Italy's biggest foreign spenders. 

While Egypt may not be as worried about a lack of foreign travelers like their neighbor Syria, that isn't stopping the country's tourism minister from wooing visitors from China. President Mohamed Morsi and staff in Beijing this week (only his third official overseas trip since taking office) described China as Egypt's "good brother, friend, and partner." Chinese tourists in Egypt have increased 20% annually as compared to the weak 5% world tourist growth rate.

There's simply no denying it--China has the masses when it comes to international number crunching, and their citizens are increasingly visiting more "exotic" locales vis-a-vis their growing wallets. While China's influence in Africa is nothing new, the focus on it certainly has sharpened in recent years. Egypt is often excluded from this sort of generalization despite being technically on the African continent, but it's easy to see China's power expanding towards the Middle East as well (ironically, despite their uneasiness with the Arab Spring overall). 

 

 

Behind-the-Scenes Hotel Insight

Have you ever asked a bellman or valet for perks when you're at hotel? Since we're still in full-on summer mode, thought I'd share this insightful and entertaining discussion on things that hotels keep from their guests (or hotel guests simply don't know about). 

Western Tourists Fuel Endangered Asian Elephant Trade

Tourists in Thailand who have their hearts set on a photo op of their elephant joyrides may think twice if they knew about the highly disturbing baby elephant trade going on. With less demand for elephant-based entertainment, these beautiful and rare Asian elephants wouldn't have to endure an unnatural life of force and abuse. 

While it's easy to think of traveling as a means to get your money's and time's worth once you get to your destination, arriving is just the beginning.

We (especially as Westerners!) have a huge responsibility to travel with a conscience no matter where we go--too much of the global tourism industry is based upon our interests to ignore this fact. And while we enjoy showing off our photographs atop an exotic jungle creature when we get home, generations of these animals will continue to suffer for our trifling moments. 

See more on how to protect our Asian elephants.

Egypt's Beach Tourism, Islamized

Egypt's beach tourism is slowly being destroyed, according to some worried experts. The nation's travel industry has long been one of the country's most important sources of income but 17 months after Hosni Mubarak's political fallout, many in the travel industry there are worried new president Mohamed Morsi wants to Islamize tourism in the long run. This has some of Egypt's tourism businesses--especially the Red Sea resorts--doubly worried since numbers have greatly fallen due to political instability in the region the past year. 

Some of my favorite beaches in the world are in Muslim countries. And many of them still don't like to see Westerners in their bikinis or speedos (haha) on the sand, but most local resorts will provide some sort of guidance as to what's appropriate or not. I just think that taking away some elements that were already in practice will bring a rough time to both travelers as well as those whose jobs depend on them.